Church visiting

[kernelbogey]

I've just spent three days in Suffolk, visiting my friend G who lives near Woodbridge; we went to stay in Aldeburgh to sample some well-reviewed restaurants and also to visit some churches. I have not done so before in Suffolk, nor had G, although I had learned from my elder brother (now deceased) years ago that some of the churches there were disproportionately large in relation to their host village: the reason being that they had been funded from the profits of the wool trade. G had recently heard the term Merchant Churches, which seems to apply to them; though an internet search turned up 'Wool Churches'.

We visited five churches: at Kelsale, Wenhaston, Blythburgh, Walberswick; and Leiston where the Victorian church by Lamb was locked. At Walberswick, only three quarters of the earlier Church remain - its vast size indicated by ruins. At Wenhaston, there is a Doom Screen ('disappointingly rustic' withers Pevsner) depicting the day of judgement on a large wooden screen which spanned the chancel. It had been whitewashed and only when thrown out into the churchyard and rained on was the fresco-like illustration revealed.

The most impressive, for me, was Blythburgh - huge and full of light because of the near-complete absence of stained glass in the windows; an absolutely magnificent building.

Although I'm not a person of faith, I nonetheless often feel tuned in to the accumulated history of prayer and community which seem almost to have soaked into the stonework.

[Pulcinella]

Yes: Pevsner is dismissive of the Wenhaston Doom; what's wrong with a bit of rustic feel to it?
A school friend of mine has retired there (and his son got married in that church); sadly the Doom is not that well cared for (unless things have changed); at one point it had a notice attached to it with a drawing pin!
You're right about Blythburgh: truly impressive.

Long Melford and Lavenham (the other side of the county) await you! You won't be disappointed.

[kernelbogey]

Long Melford and Lavenham (the other side of the county) await you! You won't be disappointed.

Thanks for the tip; I look forward to those.

At Framlingham, which I hadn't mentioned, there is a faded mediaeval fresco on the church wall of the crucifixion and some other figures; the leaflet about it says (I paraphrase) that it has survived 17th century religious rebels, eighteenth century builders and Victorian restorers! (The original is wittier.)

[oddoneout]

Norfolk has several similarly disproportionate churches for the same reason. Salle is impressive and is used by The Tallis Scholars for their recordings, and Salthouse is the Norfolk equivalent of Blythburgh.
I grew up in Gloucestershire and there are similar large wool churches across the Cotswolds - thanks to the Cotswold Lions and their Golden Fleeces.

[gurnemanz]

We stayed overnight in Woodbridge after my cousin's 70th a few years ago. A very attractive town. We went to nearby Sutton Hoo and visited lovely churches at Orford and Iken. We went to Aldeburgh but didn't have time to get as far as Blythburgh and Walberswick - next time ....

Our latest church discovery earlier this year was after staying the night down there to attend a wedding At Wimborne St Giles in Dorset. The small church at Chalbury is a delight with an intact Georgian interior including a complete set of box pews. We went to the nearby, much larger Wimborne MInster.

[gradus]

For the best on-line guide to Suffolk churches - all of them - nothing equals Simon Knott's website :http://www.suffolkchurches.co.uk/

[Pulcinella]

Norfolk's churches are dealt with in this book.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Guide-Norfolk-Churches-revised-enlarged/dp/0718895118/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1CIEG82914DSU&keywords=Guide+to+norfolk+churches&qid=1696069646&s=books&sprefix=guide+to+norfolk+churches%2Cstripbooks%2C127&sr=1-2

Simon Jenkins' book, England's Thousand Best Churches, is a good companion to have on your travels.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Englands-Thousand-Churches-Simon-Jenkins/dp/184614664X/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2LTALBHLNRKV0&keywords=Jenkins+thousand+best+churches&qid=1696069795&s=books&sprefix=jenkins+thousand+best+churches%2Cstripbooks%2C118&sr=1-1

[FRJames]

A Passion for Churches - John Betjeman (BBC, 1974)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkqY-MBPTR8

One of Betjeman's best BBC films.

[Globaltruth]

Alas Poor Yorick

A particular favourite is the church in Coxwold, a very short walk from Shandy Hall, former home of Laurence Sterne.
I won't spoil the surprise that you should find just inside the front door.

NB Shandy Hall is closed for repair until May 2024

[smittims]

Mention of Norfolk churches takes me inescapably to Parson Woodforde and his wonderful diary. Sadly his parsonage, at Weston Longeville, has been rebuilt but the church survives. Aylsham is also worth a visit, with Humphrey Repton's tomb.

Betjeman and Edward Mirzoeff's splendid film touches on the many abandoned (following depopulation and declining attendance) Norfolk churches, which have a unique atmosphere, whether or not one is a 'believer'.

[Serial_Apologist]

My grandfather, who lived in and ran an antiques business from a 15th century pilgrim's resting house in Suffolk, was something of an historian - about whom I could bore the board for an eternity with stories - and he would take us around Suffolk churches explaining the features and curios therein, along with their whys and wherefores. Since he was nearly stone deaf by the time he was in his 80s he would explain everything in a loud booming voice, attracting other visitors to the church who thought he must be an official guide, and a crowd would gather and follow him round! I have granddad to thank for my long belated fascination in local history, which has only become stronger as I have got older. My father displayed a remarkable memory for Latin from his schooldays into his own old age, which is more than can be said of myself - he would translate legends on tombs and notices in churches and graveyards. There are indeed many isolated Mediaeval and Norman churches dotted around in the fields and folds of Suffolk and Essex - one explanation, as I understand it, was the effective wiping out of their associated villages by successive waves of the Plague.

[Globaltruth]

My grandfather, who lived in and ran an antiques business from a 15th century pilgrim's resting house in Suffolk, was something of an historian - about whom I could bore the board for an eternity with stories - and he would take us around Suffolk churches explaining the features and curios therein, along with their whys and wherefores. Since he was nearly stone deaf by the time he was in his 80s he would explain everything in a loud booming voice, attracting other visitors to the church who thought he must be an official guide, and a crowd would gather and follow him round! I have granddad to thank for my long belated fascination in local history, which has only become stronger as I have got older. My father displayed a remarkable memory for Latin from his schooldays into his own old age, which is more than can be said of myself - he would translate legends on tombs and notices in churches and graveyards. There are indeed many isolated Mediaeval and Norman churches dotted around in the fields and folds of Suffolk and Essex - one explanation, as I understand it, was the effective wiping out of their associated villages by successive waves of the Plague.

Did you make any voice recordings of your grandfather S_A? I do hope so. Sounds (ahem) wonderful.
I would strongly recommend that you all make some form of recording of your relatives and definitely yourselves no matter how brief.
Can be on any topic you like, although an informal chat with at least one other person means the actual recording device is quickly forgotten.
All computers have the inbuilt ability to record, but they are not great places to have an informal chat.
Best when out walking and talking 'naturally'.
(in the interest of honesty, I freely admit that I have not recorded myself yet - I have done a lot of voice recording of others though)
I use an ancient and relatively cheap Zoom H5 with a separate memory card and a few AA batteries. I have 3 different microphones, a small tripod and, er, that's it.

[Dave2002]

Thanks for the tip; I look forward to those.

At Framlingham, which I hadn't mentioned, there is a faded mediaeval fresco on the church wall of the crucifixion and some other figures; the leaflet about it says (I paraphrase) that it has survived 17th century religious rebels, eighteenth century builders and Victorian restorers! (The original is wittier.)

Framlingham is very well worth visiting - firstly for the castle, and next for the church, which has some very ornate tombs. Definitely go for that one.

[Serial_Apologist]

Did you make any voice recordings of your grandfather S_A? I do hope so. Sounds (ahem) wonderful.

Fortunately yes, back in 1961 I think it would have been. Back then the folks had just bought a reel-to-reel tape recorder, which seemed such an exciting acquisition at that time, being able to hear ones own voice for the first time. We took it up to Brooke House for a family gathering, and I switched the machine on and asked family members to just spout on anything that came into their heads. Grandad talked about a leather tankard he had obtained at an auction and read out the legend embossed on it. It now seems strange contrasting his gruff, slightly cockney manner of speaking with various of his siblings, all of whom would have been born between 1875 and 1890, most of them having acquired that drawly affected Bertie Woosterish manner of speaking from the 1920s and 30s that came from upward social mobility at that time. I also recorded Mum and Dad in conversation at home - Mum still betraying her Teeside upbringing in her vowels, which one never noticed at the time: she lost that accdent and became completely RP in later years, sadly - and the two of them playing our piano - Mum a virtuoso Chopin performer - and singing "Phyllis Hath Such Charming Graces" - Mum in Dad's tenor range! That 6" Scotch tape was pretty ropy by the time I found it among stuff intended for keeping or not when in 2004 I sold up and moved here, so I salvaged what was still listenable by transferring it onto a blank cassette, which I dig out from time to time, along with their photo albums, to remind myself what an odd family I emerged from!

[kernelbogey]

Framlingham is very well worth visiting - firstly for the castle, and next for the church, which has some very ornate tombs. Definitely go for that one.

We spent a little time there, but didn't have the time for church or castle. But I thought the town a lovely mix of architectural styles, and we'll go back.